Giorgio Armani, the maestro of Italian elegance, passes away at 91 in Milan

New Delhi: The world of fashion lost one of its greatest icons on Thursday as the Armani Group announced the passing of its creator and guiding force, Giorgio Armani, at the age of 91.

Affectionately known as Il Signor Armani or Re Giorgio, the designer breathed his last in Milan, surrounded by loved ones. In a statement, the company said he had remained “indefatigable to the end”, working on collections and new projects until his final days.

Armani’s career was built on a single radical idea in the 1970s: dismantling the traditional men’s suit. He stripped jackets of rigid padding and heavy linings, introducing a softer, more fluid silhouette that wore like a cardigan but carried the authority of a blazer. This philosophy of simplicity as the ultimate form of elegance became his lifelong manifesto.

Born in 1934 in Piacenza, a modest industrial town near Milan, Armani was raised by his mother Maria, who made clothes for her children and seeded his appreciation for understated style. His father, Ugo, initially worked with the local Fascist party before becoming an accountant. Armani’s creative journey accelerated when he partnered with Sergio Galeotti, whom he described to GQ earlier this year as the man who “made me see the bigger world.” After Galeotti’s death in 1985, Armani carried forward the business with the support of his nieces Silvana and Roberta, nephew Andrea Camerana and longtime associate Leo Dell’Orco, turning adversity into the foundation of a global empire.

Through the 1980s, Armani’s androgynous, deconstructed suits—long jackets, pleated trousers, fluid coats—reshaped global ideas of power dressing. His muted palette of greys, beiges and navy evolved into what is today celebrated as “quiet luxury.” Women found in his designs a liberation from stiff, constraining silhouettes, embracing clothing that was at once elegant and empowering.

Armani grasped the potential of celebrity association before it became standard practice. His wardrobe for Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980) catapulted his brand onto the global stage, marrying cinematic glamour with everyday wearability. Soon, stars such as Diane Keaton, Jodie Foster, Julia Roberts and Cate Blanchett were regulars in Armani’s creations. Roberts’ 1990 Golden Globes appearance in a steel-grey oversized Armani suit remains etched as one of fashion’s most iconic red-carpet moments.

Armani’s genius lay not only in design but also in branding. Since founding the Giorgio Armani Group in 1975 with Galeotti, he expanded far beyond fashion into beauty, fragrances, interiors and luxury hospitality. By 2024, the group was generating over €2.3 billion ($2.7 billion) in annual revenue.

Fiercely protective of his independence, Armani resisted multiple offers from global conglomerates like LVMH and Kering. In 2016, he set up a foundation to secure the company’s governance, ensuring that the house would remain true to his vision even after his time. “There will be an Armani after Armani,” he declared, underlining his commitment to brand continuity.

Leaders and luminaries across fashion and politics mourned his passing. Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni hailed him as “a symbol of the best of Italy.” Designer Donatella Versace called him “a giant” whose legacy “will be remembered forever.” Actress Julia Roberts, one of Armani’s most prominent muses, wrote simply: “A true friend. A legend.”

In its statement, Armani Group said, “In this company, we have always felt like part of a family. Today, with deep emotion, we feel the void left by the one who founded and nurtured this family with vision, passion, and dedication. But it is precisely in his spirit that we, the employees and the family members who have always worked alongside Mr. Armani, commit to protecting what he built and to carrying his company forward in his memory, with respect, responsibility, and love.”

A funeral chamber will be open to the public at Armani/Teatro, Via Bergognone 59, Milan, on September 6 and 7, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. In line with Armani’s personal wishes, the funeral itself will be held privately.